Olds FAQ - - Exhaust Manifolds. Exhaust Manifolds. Submit corrections and additions to this information to. The Olds FAQ Compiler. All you will see is a number cast into. It will look like a plate with the date was screwed. Unlike Chevy, which uses actual dates.

C 6. 9, for March 3, 1. Olds will cast 6. For originality and number matching authentication. Then make sure your manifolds were cast within a few weeks of the.

CID, Casting #s. Outside ports. Center ports. 37. Assuming a somewhat.

Detailed information on how to install VP44 injector pumps. Photo 5: Drill into the studs. Drill a 1/8-in. Diesel performance exhaust systems by Silverline, MBRP, Magnaflow, aFe, Volant, Banks Power, and Diamond Eye.

• Notes: In this area of the country, the studs and nuts which retain the catalytic converter flanges to the exhaust manifolds are usually seized together from.
• RRE Do-it-Yourself/Hacker-Tweaker 2G 16-G Install Kit $195 Includes: Piping that runs from the Turbo to the stock intercooler location, 2 1/4" New braided stainless.
• The Studfix clamp is and easy to install clamp that is a great alternative to replacing rusted or broken exhaust studs. The Studfix clamp reattaches your exhaust down.

J- 2. manifold would never fit a 3. The 1. 96. 7 and earlier models do not have this feature. There are. no true dual exhaust small block manifolds. On earlier units, it can be found. REAR exhaust port. There is also a 6- digit casting ID, usually. It. was not uncommon, especially after 1.

Sometimes you can. LH= for. left hand side, RH= for right hand side of engine. They typically. turn up and out at the outlet, far more so than those for any other car. An article in JWO explained confirmed this. The 6. 8 uses a unique manifold (Y- 3. Ribbed for heat shield.

With heat shield to protect. With heat shield to protect. Straight down. 3. Standard issue manifold. O2 sensor boss. Stainless steel tubular manifolds found on. A head 3. 07's. Single outlet.

Symptoms of Seal Replacement The transmission output seal is the seal that seals between the rotating output flange (which is bolted to the drive shaft) and the. The best value exhaust shop.

When changing gears in a vehicle with high mileage (60,000), it is suggested that the bearings also be swapped. That is what this install will be showing as well. Boatinfo requires FlashPlayer 9 or newer to display this document! Installation Aquamatic DPH, DPR Volvo Penta IPS Inboard 1(1) B D4, D6 Installation Marine.

A- body car. Companion. T, typically. H 4. RH. Toronado. J 4. LH. Toronado. R LH.

Used on big cars. Companion to T, typically.

T 3. 98. 70. 94 RH. Used on big cars about '6.

Two holes. one for crossover pipe from the LH side. Main outlet has 2- bolt. Might fit in A- bodied. Companion to A, typically. W 3. 89. 26. 8 RH.

A- body with big block and dual. This one has the W over the rear runner. Does NOT have. a divider between center ports. Companion to X- 3. LH. See also. Y- 3. RH . THE most. desirable set to have. Has divider between center ports.

Companion to. Z- 4. RH. X 3. 89. 26. LH. 1. 96. 5- 6. 8 4. A- body, some Vista Cruiser and SX's with big block and. This one has the W over the *rear* runner. Does. NOT have a divider between center ports. Companion to W- 3.

RH. X 4. 12. 28. LH. 1. 97. 0- up? A- , B- , C- body with big block and.

Has the divider between center ports. Good substitute. for W- 4. LH. X 4. 12. 28. LH. 1. 97. 3- 7. 4 4. W- 3. 0 with big block and. Has the divider between center ports.

Good substitute. for W- 4. LH. Y 3. 98. 70. RH. 1. 96. 8 4. 42's, A- body, some Vista Cruiser and SX's with big block and dual. This one has the Y over the front runner. Does NOT have. a divider between center ports. The manifold has raised ridges in.

Companion to X- 3. LH. Z 4. 02. 29. RH. 1. 96. 9- 7. 4 4. W- 3. 0, H/O, A- body with big block and. THE most desirable set to have.

Has divider between. Companion to LH unit W- 4. LH. 1 4. 11. 96. Small block standard issue LH manifold. Companion to RH unit 4- 3. Small block standard issue RH manifold. Companion to LH unit 1- 4.

RH. Early 3. 30 small block. Single outlet. dual exhaust sb manifold.

LH. 1. 98. 1 2. 60, 1. Companion to RH. unit 1. RH. 1. 98. 1 2. 60, 1. Shares the. same basic casting as the earlier 3. O2 sensor. Companion to LH unit. Also used with LH unit 1.

Tubular Tubular RH, LH. Stainless steel 7a head 3. The tubular stainless steel looks. These will. be dull and somewhat smooth, but very different than cast iron manifolds. They equire a gasket, which differs from cast iron which does. The 3. 50 diesel manifolds on the trucks came with no block off plate. They use a different sealing system than the regular.

The 3. 50 diesel cars used the same manifolds as. There was also a change in the. The earlier ones had this cast into. W- 3. 1's used STANDARD 3. Take off the cross- over pipe. Cut the end that goes to the drivers. Then take. this piece and have its crushed seam welded at a local station (5 bucks).

The. result is a plug that can be used where the crossover used to connect with the. Then just run a second exhaust pipe back from the.

Add the muffler of your choice and. A competent tuner can open up the. EPA. And you may need. EGR is, if it is a Neg or Pos backpressure type, you.

Port type. Or tweak WHEN the EGR applies. Take it. for what it's worth, and do what you want with it. Just thought I'd. I learned. For Duals, divide the single system number by 2 to. Based on Dynomax Street Series Ultra. Flow Universal Mufflers. I'll get. back to you as soon as I can.

This is. not necessarily a bad thing if the plumbing is up to the task (and, at. Keep in mind that a. Of course, this is a very simplistic view, as the effects of.

For example, a large diameter tube which has been. As I mentioned earlier, it often does. Assuming one is installed which does have sufficient flow rate. Every exhaust pulse sees both. I should have just. On my 7. 5 Cutlass, there simply is not enough.

They WILL hit the springs or the upper. The catalog says 6. A- bodied cars. I believe they will fit most. The box says 6. 7- 7. A- body. The pipes had stickers that said 6.

Chevelle. By the time. I finally came to realize. That's what the exhaust shop guys had said all. Yes these were custom exhaust shops. Finally after many hours and. I had another shop custom bend a set of 2. Oh, and yes, I do have a double hump crossmember from a 7.

Cutlass. The problem is from the mufflers back. I suggest that members with. MAKE you a. set of pipes in 2. He also, however, had just installed new HD. BB. Maybe your back springs are a bit on the soft side?

Dunno, but I. do know that if a 3. Evans. for this information . Only the big block cars used different. There wasn't even a separate one for the W- 3. The small. block exhaust manifold used a cover plate over the crossover outlet. There is no small block dual exhaust manifold.

It might take a while to find a shop that will do it, and do. If you are concerned about a small. In 1. 97. 2, this became part number 3.

N1. 0. was the dual exhaust code option. These parts have been since. GM. The 5. 7 diesels in. They. also had these caps on the RH manifold. This also means that. Detroit- Diesel- Allison is a place to look, because they took. Olds diesel. The exhaust head.

The flange forces the flared end of the. Ok, any muffler shop should be able to provide you with. Presto. you have your cap. Then use an exhaust doughnut gasket between your new. For a much cleaner.

I chose to fabricate a cap. I went to the local auto parts. I then cut the pipe about two.

I took this piece to a local metal working shop. John Deere 700J Parts Manual. They. turned down a piece of 2. This makes for a much. A. dual hump crossmember from a late 1. Cutlass. Skylark, Monte Carlo, Chevelle, Lemans, etc.

This is required because the earlier car are. G- bodies. You do have to make some. A Sawzall or. reciprocating saw is best to do the modifications. You might also need to do some work to the.

Also had to. remove the support for the original crossmember located on the pass. Four new bolt holes in the frame rail, and you are in business. Therefore, the new one will not fit in the original one's.

Also, it will have to sit on the bottom of the frame rail instead. There is not enough room between the top frame rail and the. You would really have to MODIFY the floor. I would not. be hesitant about this! Yes, you might think that there is not enough. But it could easily be reinforced with angle iron. I just have mine bolted to the bottom rail with nothing extra.

I DO plan on strengthing it in the. In. other words, make sure that the transmission is sitting at the same level it. You can use shims, etc, to obtain the proper level. I made a block of steel about 3. They come down and then both pipes go to the passenger. Any good muffler shop should be able to do.

I've seen plenty of other's (mostly Cutlass) done the same way. When the pipes are run alongside each other, they shouldn't.

This. also makes it easy to install an equalizing (H) pipe if you want to. I recently saw a Cutlass GT with true dual but with a single hump. How. did he do it?

Well, he installed the reducer to the collector and welded a. He passed the pipe under the oil pan (he had a.

From there on it was installed like the factory. He got excellent clearence and no ugly tubes showing. Will allow the use of dual exhaust because most have two .

How to Install Bathroom Grab Bars. Your grab bars will be rock- solid if you anchor them to studs.

Photo 1: Mark the stud locations. Find the studs near your proposed grab bar location using a stud sensor or one of the techniques mentioned in the story. Make a light pencil mark at the center of each stud. Photo 2: Mark the sides of the studs. Find the edges of the studs by probing with a finish nail. Make a series of holes in an inconspicuous location, like directly above the tile, and mark both edges of the studs.

Photo 3: Transfer the stud locations to the tile. Extend the stud marks down to the grab bar location with a level. Place a strip of 1- 1/2 in. Photo 4: Place the grab bar over the studs.

Position the grab bar (see “Positioning Your Grab Bars.”) so that at least two of the screw holes align with the studs. Then mark each hole with a grease pencil.

Photo 5: Drill into the studs. Drill a 1/8- in. If you hit solid wood, drill the remaining holes. If not, poke a piece of bent wire through the hole and probe until you feel the stud. Reposition the grab bar and mark the holes Grab bars aren't just safety devices for hospitals and public restrooms.

In your own home, a strategically placed and solidly anchored grab bar can mean the difference between a relaxing bath and a trip to the emergency room. In your bathtub or shower, grab bars provide extra security for that first slippery step. In this article, we'll show you where to position grab bars and how to anchor them so they're rock- solid. If you've mounted towel bars or other hardware around the house, you'll have no trouble installing grab bars. It shouldn't take more than a few hours. You'll only need a hammer, a level, a drill and a few special drill bits.

A stud sensor is optional. Your grab bars will be rock- solid if you anchor them to the studs. If you're mounting your grab bars to standard wood- framed walls, first you'll have to precisely locate the vertical framing members called studs (Photos 1 and 2). Most grab bars have three screw holes in each mounting flange, but you'll only be able to anchor two of the three screws into a typical 1- 1/2 in. Use a plastic anchor for the third screw. As long as these screws penetrate at least an inch into sound wood, the grab bar will meet or exceed the 2. More important, it will be plenty strong to support you even in a fall.

We'll show you how to mount grab bars to fiberglass tubs and showers, hollow walls and concrete. Studs are easy to find in walls with only a single layer of drywall over the framing. Rap on the wall with your knuckle until the sound changes from hollow to a dull thud, or use a stud sensor (Photo 1).

Thicker wall coverings like plaster present a greater challenge. Here are a few tips: Remove the access hatch behind the tub drain and peer behind the tub with a flashlight to look for studs. Go to the room or closet behind the long tub wall and look for clues to stud locations like nails in the baseboard. Then measure from a reference point you can identify when you go back into the bathroom.

When you've located what you believe to be the center of the studs, confirm the stud locations and find both edges by probing with a nail (Photo 2). If wall tile extends to the ceiling, drill 1/8- in. Patch the holes later with matching grout or caulk. Mark the studs and grab bar mounting holes (Photo 4). Then drill a 1/8- in.

If you miss the stud, adjust the grab bar location accordingly and drill new holes. In most cases, the unused hole will be covered by the mounting plate on the grab bar. Positioning Your Grab Bars. Even a solidly anchored grab bar is useless if it's in the wrong place. What location is best depends on the particular situation.

If you're installing the bars for a person with a disability or injury, have this person help you decide which location will be most helpful. A physical therapist or an occupational therapist also can help with this decision. For solid anchoring, stud locations are critical too. The bottom of the bar should be 3.

Position the bar so it can be anchored to a wall stud. Mount a bar at an angle between two wall studs on the long back wall of the tub (Photo 7). The bottom of the bar should be about 6 to 1. For studs 1. 6 in. A person can use this grab bar to help lower himself and get up again. If this bar will be used primarily by a person sitting in a bath chair, raise the bottom to about 1.

Fastening the grab bar. Photo 6: Caulk the mounting flange.

Caulk the back of the grab bar mounting flange with tub- and- tile adhesive or silicone caulk. Photo 7: Attach the grab to the wall. Screw the grab bar to the wall with the No.

They should penetrate the stud at least 1 in. Complete the grab bar installation as shown in Photos 6 and 7. Use a 1/4- in. Then use a 5/3. This will make driving the screws easier. Insert a plastic anchor in the holes in the tile that miss the stud Then screw the bar to the wall with No. Make sure the screws penetrate the studs at least 1 in.

In most cases, 2- in. If you simply can't anchor to a stud, you have a few options. The best alternative is to secure wood blocking between the studs. However, this requires opening a small hole in the wall and patching it after the blocking is screwed into place. If possible, work from the backside of the tub wall, where you're not hindered by ceramic tile or other tub finishes. If you're lucky, you'll have a closet or storage area where the wall patch doesn't have to be perfect. As a last resort, use toggle bolts or Wing.

Its to mount the grab bar to the hollow part of the wall. The plaster, mortar or tile backer must be dry and solid and at least 5/8 in.

You're not done until you yank- test. Photo 8: Pull on the bar to see if it's secure. Attach a vertical grab bar near the tub edge, following the procedures shown in Photos 1 – 7. The bottom of the bar should be about 3.

Yank both grab bars to test for a strong connection. You're not done until you yank- test. Give the bars a good solid yank to test their holding power (Photo 8). With a helper standing by in case the bar comes loose, pull with all your strength.

Now's the time to make sure the bar will hold up when it's really needed. While you're at it, consider installing grab bars in other key locations. A vertical or angled bar mounted on the wall to the side of the toilet or a vertical bar installed on the side wall in front of the toilet helps getting up or down. The expert we talked to recommended mounting a vertical bar beside the entry door from an attached garage.

Usually there isn't a handrail, and negotiating two or three steps with a bag of groceries under your arm is a lot easier and safer with a grab bar to hang on to. Look around and you'll find other spots where grab bars would make everyday tasks safer and easier. The Best Way to Anchor Grab Bars to Concrete.

Plastic plug anchors hold screws tight in masonry or concrete. Anchor grab bars to concrete, concrete block or brick with 1/4- in.

Drill a 1/4- in. Push the sleeve into the hole and drive in the screw. Use plastic anchors after drilling a pilot hole. Grab bar fastened to the concrete wall. Bt Home Hub Wpa Cracking on this page.

Buying Grab Bars. Grab bars are specially manufactured to hold at least 2. Towel bars and other light- duty bars are not strong enough. Most bars are stainless steel to resist corrosion, but you can also find them with a painted finish in a variety of colors. We purchased our 1- 1/2 in. Thinner bars are available, but a standard 1- 1/2 in. Some bars feature added texture to reduce slipping.

Here are a few guidelines for selecting grab bars: Purchase an 1. Before you buy a bar to mount at an angle or horizontally on the long tub wall (Photos 1 and 2), locate the studs.

Then buy a bar that reaches from one stud to the other, usually 3. Buy standard 1- 1/2 in. Thinner bars look more like towel bars and may not be strong enough for heavy use. Avoid grab bars that leave more than a 1- 1/2 in.

A person's arm could slip into the extra- wide space and become trapped or break during a fall.